The rhododendron plant is represented by a wide variety of species - it can be a shrub, a semi-shrub and even a tree. Their dimensions can be quite different: from small, creeping shrubs to tree-like varieties growing up to 30 meters in height. There are representatives with leaves falling for the winter and evergreen specimens. This genus also includes indoor azalea. The distribution area is also very extensive: from Asia to North America.

This plant belongs to the Heather family. The flowers that adorn the rhododendron shrub are tiny or very large, up to 20 cm in diameter. Color pleases with a variety of shades. Petals most often fold into a pipe, forming funnel-shaped flowers, collected in lush inflorescences. In beauty, they are not inferior to the queen of flowers - the rose. The leaves also vary greatly in shape and arrangement on the stem.

Types and varieties of culture

pink rhododendron tree

Pink rhododendron has incredible beauty: planting and caring for it does not cause any problems. This species has become one of the most favorite among gardeners. It is often referred to as rosewood, as it can reach two to three meters in height and is generously decorated with bright, pink-purple flowers that form beautiful inflorescences of 5-9 pieces that exude a wonderful aroma. It grows slowly, during the year the shoots grow only 5-8 cm. It sheds foliage for the winter, winters well, tolerates frosts down to -30 ° C.

Varieties of pink rhododendron

The beautiful pink-colored Amoena rhododendron, planting and caring for which will allow you to get a whole cloud of pink flowers, is characterized by the fact that it belongs to the evergreen varieties. An equally remarkable variety from this category is the Pierce American Beauty rhododendron: planting and caring for which does not differ from the standard approaches to keeping other members of the genus.

This shrub grows up to 1.8 m, and in breadth it will grow up to 3 meters. During flowering, it is covered with raspberry-pink balls of inflorescences, in which you can count up to 18 beautiful, bell-shaped flowers. The diameter of each of them is about 7 cm, in shape they resemble a wide funnel. The upper petals are decorated with dark brown dots. The bush blooms for a long time and plentifully, for 20 days delighting the soul with its magnificence.

Rules for planting rhododendron at their summer cottage

In order for the care of the rhododendron to give good results, it is necessary to approach the choice of a site for its placement with all responsibility.

Properly carried out planting of rhododendron and caring for it in the future, in compliance with simple rules, will ensure the lush flowering of the shrub. Russian climatic conditions are not suitable for all types of plants. Therefore, you should choose cold-resistant varieties suitable for temperate latitudes. There are a great many of them, and some of them have been mentioned above.

Site selection and neighbors

It all starts with the selection of a site in the garden, where the shrub will grow for many years. Here you need to take into account several points. Firstly, the roots of the plant spread almost at the very surface of the earth. Therefore, the garden rhododendron is demanding of its neighbors: planting and caring for it include a mandatory item - a careful selection of the environment. It depends on this whether the shrub will develop normally, whether it will not burn out, as well as the quality of its flowering.

Which neighbors are best?

It is categorically contraindicated to plant rhododendron next to trees with superficial roots - spruce, linden. It is not recommended to place shrubs near birch, maple, aspen, chestnut. They will not leave a chance for the rhododendron to receive water and nutrients in full. It is best to plant it next to a pine or oak, as their rhizomes go deep underground. You can plant seedlings in the vicinity of fruit trees, but in such a way that they are not in constant shadow from the crown.

Choosing a suitable site

Regarding the choice of site, it must be reliably protected from the wind and the scorching sun. It is advisable to protect the branches of the plant from the aggressive effects of sunlight in the summer at noon and daytime. You can plant a plant next to a fence or wall of a house facing north or northeast. No matter how strange it may seem, but these cardinal points are the best choice for rhododendron.

Why north or northeast?

The fact is that the plant has a property that everyone who is going to plant it needs to know about, so as not to ask the question later: why does the rhododendron not bloom, and its leaves burn? The bush forms buds in late summer and during autumn. They produce the most beautiful flowers in spring. During the last days of winter - the first days of spring, the kidneys, under the influence of the bright sun, begin to actively lose moisture. With sunny February and March, they may become completely dehydrated.

Before the roots wake up (and this will happen no earlier than April), the embryos of future buds may completely lose their ability to bloom. For the same reason, the foliage burns. Therefore, it is very important to protect the shrub from the early, active exposure to the sun's rays in the spring. Otherwise, it will be possible not to wait for flowering from the bush, or it will bloom its flowers - bluebells only on the north side.

Planting rules

It is best to plant rhododendrons in the spring. The root system of the bush does not differ in large dimensions, so it will be necessary to prepare a hole for it, 0.5 m deep, with a diameter of 0.7-0.8 m. If it is planned to plant several bushes, then, depending on the variety, it is necessary to leave a distance of 0.8-2 m so that the plants do not overlap each other with a crown in the future.

Plants of this genus love watering, but do not live in permanently waterlogged soil. This must be taken into account and lay out drainage at the bottom of the dug hole. Its layer should be about 18 cm. After that, the soil is laid, consisting of peat, deciduous forest land and coniferous litter. All components are taken in a ratio of 2:3:1 and thoroughly mixed. A bush is planted in the prepared hole. Its neck should not go deep into the ground, it should rise a few centimeters above the ground level. The soil surrounding the planted bush needs to be pressed down a little and watered thoroughly.

Features of care in the open field

The rhododendron will not require much work and effort from the gardener: planting and care in the open field involves a classic set of techniques.

The most important of them is top dressing, since the root system is very close to the soil surface and cannot get nutrients from the deep bowels of the earth. Ash should immediately be excluded from the list of suitable dressings for the plant. It lowers the acidity of the soil, due to which the foliage on the bushes may turn yellow. What is the best fertilizer for rhododendrons?

Regular plant nutrition

Speaking about how to feed the rhododendron, you should first of all pay attention to the incompletely rotted coniferous soil, similar to peat with the remains of pine needles. It will not only even out the acidity of the soil, give useful substances to the plant, but also act as a mulching agent. You can also use ordinary peat, which, like coniferous humus, must be laid out around the shrub, trying not to sprinkle the outlet from which the branches grow. From industrial preparations, to feed the vital forces of the plant, Kemira-universal granular top dressing or any liquid mineral fertilizers suitable for this species are used.

Rules for watering and irrigating crops

The plant loves watering, it is especially important to ensure that the soil around the bush does not dry out in the first year of life. Ordinary tap water is not suitable for rhododendron. Its composition is too heavy for him. It is better to use rain or river water, as it is softer. From time to time, the irrigation liquid is acidified with the help of preparations that can be purchased at specialized stores. However, if top dressing is used, made specifically for rhododendrons, and constant mulching with coniferous humus is carried out, it is not necessary to acidify the soil.

Spraying and loosening the bush

Rhododendrons prefer moist air. It has been noticed that more lush inflorescences open where there are water bodies nearby. If such "natural moisturizers" are not available, then once every 7 days it is necessary to spray the plant. Water requirements remain the same as for irrigation. It is better to spray the plants in the morning or evening hours, when there is no scorching sun. The earth near the shrub does not loosen, because nearby, superficial roots can be damaged. It is better to carefully manually remove the weeds, so as not to hurt the root system of the shrub.

Propagation of a rhododendron plant

There are several ways to propagate rhododendron. Before propagating rhododendron, it is necessary to determine the purpose of breeding. If the grower plans to get a new plant that completely matches the original variety, then the bush should be propagated vegetatively using layering or cuttings. When breeding wild varieties of shrubs, you can use the seeds of the mother plant.

Breeding using seeds

In the spring, seeds are planted in separate containers or containers with soil. The soil is prepared from two components - peat and sand. They are taken in equal proportions. It is not necessary to deepen the seeds, they are simply scattered on the surface of the substrate and crushed with a small amount of river sand. Then the earth is watered in boxes. Tap water should be slightly acidified with oxalic acid. It is bred in a minimal amount - only 3-4 grams per ten-liter bucket. The boxes are wrapped in foil and placed in heat.

Seedling care in spring and summer

After 20 days - 1 month, the first shoots of seedlings will appear. The film is removed, and the boxes are placed in a cool room (t- + 8 ° С - + 12 ° С). Watering is done in pallets. When the soil mixture is completely saturated, the water from the pallets is drained. For the summer, containers with young seedlings are taken out into the fresh air, placing them out of direct sunlight. For the first time, seedlings dive in June. At the same time, they are placed, retreating 1.5 cm from the previous sprout.

Seedling care in winter

On winter period they are brought into the house and arrange wintering for them at t- + 18 ° С. At this time, they need additional illumination with fluorescent lamps. Light day for normal seedling growth lasts at least 16 hours a day. At the end of winter, the plants dive for the second time. Now the distance between the seedlings should expand to 3-4 cm. After three years, the shoots move to a permanent place of growth.

Cuttings of rhododendron at home

When cuttings, flowering will come the very next year. Cuttings are cut from stems that are half lignified. Their length is 5-8 cm, the lower edge is cut obliquely. The foliage located below is cut off, and 2-3 leaves on top are not removed. Seedlings are placed in containers with a mixture of sand and peat (equal proportions), or from three parts of sawdust of tree species and 1 part of river sand. At the same time, they are not buried directly, but at an angle, the angle of which should be within 30 ° C. The earth around them is a little tamped and a polyethylene shelter is built.

The temperature during rooting should be about +24 ° C. Do not forget about additional lighting and maintaining good humidity. Rooted cuttings are transplanted into boxes with a soil mixture of peat and coniferous litter (2: 1) and kept at a temperature of + 8 ° C - + 12 ° C until spring. 14 days after transplanting into boxes, they are fertilized with urea (solution concentration -2%). With the onset of stable spring heat, the finished seedlings are planted in the ground.

Indoor rhododendron: why is the azalea whimsical?

The azalea flower is sometimes called the indoor rhododendron: planting and caring for it at home often fails, as all the conditions necessary for it are not met. In most cases, it grows in mountainous areas, which determines its love for moist and cool air and acidic soil. In apartment conditions, it is difficult to find a room with t + 10 ° С -15 ° С, where azaleas will be comfortable. In addition to the fact that dry, warm air is detrimental to the flower itself, it also causes some home rhododendron diseases, such as spider mites. Therefore, choosing this capricious flower, you must immediately make sure that the plant lives "with convenience", otherwise all efforts will be reduced to zero.

Rhododendrons are one of the most beautiful flowering shrubs in our gardens and parks. Deciduous or evergreen - in spring they are completely buried in flowers.

In the people they are called wild rosemary, kashkara, black-maned, shkeri, draposhtan - depending on the type of plant growing in a particular area.

Their genus is very ancient and includes more than 1,000 species, on the basis of which almost 12,000 varieties have been obtained with the most diverse useful properties. But the main thing is their decorative qualities.

Landing

You can grow rhododendrons in almost any area. Hollows and closed depressions should be avoided, where there is a predisposition to the accumulation and stagnation of surface water, as well as the accumulation of cold air.

The landing site must be protected both from the withering and cold wind, and from bright sunlight. Deciduous species are more resistant and can grow in an open sunny area. For one bush, a landing pit is being prepared; for a group, it is best to prepare a plot of the required area. The size and depth of the planting hole is determined by the soil conditions and the hydrological regime of the site.

Usually the width of the pit is 60-70 cm, the depth is 30-40 cm. On heavy clay soils, the pit should be less deep (15-20 cm) and much wider (1-1.2 m). The planting hole is filled with high-moor peat or soil mixture prepared in advance. It is very important that the pH of the substrate is acidic (3.5-5).

The following mixtures are recommended: acid peat, coniferous and leafy soil, river sand (3:1:2:1); acid peat, sawdust, sand (2:1:1); peat, fallen needles, sawdust, sand (2:1:1:1), etc. It is desirable to add complete mineral fertilizer to the soil mixture at the rate of 150-200 g / cu. m, as well as 40-60 g of sulfur.

Before planting, the rhododendron in a container or with a clod of earth is placed in a container of water and kept until the clod is completely saturated with moisture. Then they are taken out of the container and planted in a prepared planting hole.

Deepen into the soil so that the upper part of the root ball from the container is at the level of the soil surface. Do not bury the root neck of the plant. If this rule is violated, it ceases to bloom, and eventually dies.

Around the landing site, a small roller is formed from the earth and water is gradually poured until the soil is completely saturated with moisture. After 1-2 weeks, the soil is leveled, but a small depression is left in order to retain water during further watering.

Watering

The usual watering rate is 1-1.5 buckets two to three times a week for an adult plant. Young seedlings are watered more often, but not more than 0.5 buckets per 1 bush. During flowering - more often.

If the weather is dry in autumn, the plants should also be watered abundantly. This contributes to better overwintering. In dry and hot weather, the bushes are sprayed with water.

Water should be acidified before watering: the pH of the water should be no more than 4-5 units, otherwise the soil will become alkaline, and the rhododendrons will start to hurt. Under such conditions, they are deficient in nitrogen, which manifests itself in the form of yellowing of the leaves. Then they dry up and the plant dies.

For acidification, you can use concentrated sulfuric acid (1 ml per bucket of water) or oxalic, citric, acetic or other organic acids (3-4 g per bucket of water).

A good solution to this problem is the use of electrolyte for acid batteries. 10-20 ml of electrolyte per bucket of water lowers the pH from 7 to 4-5 units (electrolyte is the same sulfuric acid, only diluted, and therefore there is practically no risk of getting burned).

Secondly, using an electrolyte, we not only acidify the soil, but also introduce one of the vital elements of mineral nutrition for heathers - sulfur.

The soil near the bushes should not be loosened, since the root system of rhododendrons lies very close to the surface.

Late spring and early autumn frosts are not dangerous for flowers. Most varieties during the period of active vegetation and flowering are able to withstand temperatures down to -7 degrees. Faded inflorescences must be removed. This prevents the formation of seeds, but allows the plant to use nutrients to lay buds for flowering next year and for the growth of shoots.

At a young age, the removal of inflorescences causes the formation of new branches and a better growth of the bush in width and height. Additional branching can be achieved by removing vegetative buds.

The most winter-hardy varieties

Of the evergreens - Album Novum (Album Novum) (Rh. catawbiense) - without shelter withstands frosts down to -29 degrees. Flowers in buds are pink, later pure white with a yellow spot. Blooms later than other varieties. Growth is strong, the bush is spherical, vertically directed.

Rhododendron Katevbinsky Grand diflorum (Rh. catawbiense Grandiflo-rum) - withstands frosts down to -30 degrees without shelter. The flowers are light purple with a delicate bronze pattern. Growth is strong. The bush is spherical, slightly flattened.

Variety Helsinki University (Rh. brachycarpum hybr.) - withstands without shelter frosts down to -40 degrees. The flowers are light pink, inside are lighter with a maroon pattern.

Nova Zembla (Rh. catawbiense) - without shelter withstands frosts down to -29 degrees. The flowers are ruby ​​red. The leaves are large, dark green. Growth is strong, the bush is dense.

Haaga - withstands frosts down to -30 degrees without shelter. The flowers are pink. Bush of medium height, slightly spreading.

Elite (Elite Rh / carolini-anum cv.P. J.M. Elite) - withstands frosts up to -35 degrees without shelter. The flowers are purple-pink, darker inside than on the edge. The bush is spreading. Leaves with rosemary scent. Blooms in late April-early May.

Of the deciduous rhododendrons, almost all varieties winter, but in the fall it is necessary to insulate the root system.

Trimming flowers

In general, pruning is optional, but possible to form a bush. It is carried out immediately after flowering. At the beginning of summer, excess root suckers and long shoots are removed. Cut out dry and damaged branches regularly.

Pruning is best tolerated by fast-growing varieties and forms, but in most it delays growth and the first flowering.

Application in the garden

Any variety can be planted as a single bush on a lawn or under a canopy of trees. Plants will look great in compositions on alpine slides, in "Japanese gardens", in single and group landings, in hedges, in decorative compositions in gardens, parks, squares, forest parks.

From them you can create beautiful undersized and medium height curbs. They will decorate the heather garden. A flower is also suitable as a ground cover.

They can be planted in various containers near the porch, arbors and benches in the garden. This reduces the need for a substrate by 50-70%, containers can be transferred from one place to another for short-term decoration of a site or a winter garden.

The most suitable varieties of compact Yakushima rhododendron (Rh. yakushimanum), as well as Japanese evergreen species. In large containers it is possible to grow other species and varieties.

A number of varieties are used for industrial cut cultivation. Cut flowers stand in vases for a long time (up to 20 days) without losing their decorative effect.

Useful rhododendron

1. Adding petals of Canadian rhododendron to fermenting wine for 20 minutes. completely stops the fermentation process.
2. The most important essential oil raw materials are yellow flowers. They are harvested by hand and processed within 2-3 hours. The oil is a light yellow or brown thick mass with a pleasant smell.
3. Erikolin and andromedotoxin, which is contained in its leaves, can paralyze insects and small animals. Near the plantings of this plant there will be no mosquitoes, flies and other blood-sucking, as well as small animals: rodents and reptiles.
4. Honey collected from the flowers of the Caucasian species has a healing effect and is very useful for colds.
5. An infusion of leaves of the golden variety (1 teaspoon per glass of water, 3-4 times a day) is used as a diaphoretic, diuretic and sedative. It is able to reduce venous pressure, reduce edema in patients with circulatory failure, and have an antimicrobial effect. A decoction of the leaves is drunk for tiredness and pain in the legs.
6. Wood of the Pontic species is used for carpentry and turning crafts.

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Rhododendron, planting and care in the open field - how to please rosemary?

Blooming rhododendron is able to turn even the most mediocre piece of land into a Garden of Eden. It attracts attention with its lush flowering and transforms the space around it. The most remarkable thing is that this plant can be safely grown in the middle climatic zone of Russia, since it is able to endure cold winters. But in order for the flowering to be as lush and beautiful as possible, you should know some rules. This is what will be discussed in our article.

Rhododendron is a deciduous evergreen plant from the heather family, numbering about 1000 species, among which there are both shrubs and trees. By the way, the azaleas beloved by many, decorating window sills in city apartments, have a second name - “indoor rhododendron”. Interesting: The word "rhododendron" itself consists of two parts, literally translated as "rose" and "tree". From this it follows that the plant is called "rose tree". The birthplace of the rhododendron is the Northern Hemisphere of the planet - the Himalayas, North America, China, Japan, Southeast Asia. It is not surprising that plants feel comfortable in Russia as well. In the wild, they can be found near freshwater and salt water bodies, on northern mountain slopes and in shaded undergrowth. Appearance they are so diverse that it is sometimes very difficult to determine the name with accuracy - some rhododendrons creep along the ground, others grow no more than 30 cm, while others turn into powerful trees and shrubs. Flowers can also be very different and not similar to each other at first glance. Some of them are able to reach 20 cm in diameter. As for the garden rhododendron, about 3000 of its species and varieties are known, numbering annual, biennial, perennial plants with different leaves and flowers. Flowers are a separate conversation, because it is because of them that the rhododendron is known to the whole world. They are distinguished by their special decorative effect and are presented in the widest color palette, ranging from snow-white to purple and lilac speckled shades. Their shape can also vary: tubular, bell-shaped, wheel-shaped, funnel-shaped, etc. Some flowers do not smell at all, others exude a subtle pleasant aroma. In their place, after flowering, fruits appear - multi-seeded boxes with five wings. Good to know: The root system is of a superficial type, so transplanting a rhododendron is quite easy, and you can do it at any age. However, the rhododendron is famous not only for its exceptional decorative, but also medicinal properties. It has long been used in traditional medicine, especially such species as golden, Dahurian, Caucasian and Adams rhododendron. They contain a large number of ascorbic acid, arbutin, anromedotoxin and a special substance of rhododendrin. Preparations from this plant have antipyretic, sedative, analgesic and bactericidal effects. In addition, they help to remove excess fluid from the body, normalize the heartbeat, lower blood pressure, and strengthen blood vessels. Important: Taking medicines based on rhododendron can harm people with kidney disease, necrosis, pregnant and lactating mothers. Be sure to consult your doctor before taking. Types and varieties of Rhododendron garden We have already mentioned above that the garden rhododendron plant has about 3,000 species, so we will list only the most famous and popular of them. The most notable varieties of garden rhododendron: In addition to the varieties described above, rhododendron Albrecht, Vazeya, Ledebour, Carpathian, Canadian, hololithous, spiky, plum-leaved and many, many others are grown in gardens. I would also like to mention hybrid rhododendrons. These are sets of varietal forms and hybrids, which include the following cultural species: Rules for growing Rhododendron garden Growing a garden rhododendron in the middle lane is easy if you know certain planting and care rules. In this part of the article, you will learn how to do it. Planting Rhododendron garden In the conditions of the middle zone, it is rational to grow exclusively winter-hardy varieties. Planting a garden rhododendron should take place from mid-April to mid-May, when severe night frosts have receded. Autumn planting is also possible in September-October. In principle, rhododendron can be planted at any time, except for the flowering period, since then all the forces of the plant go to maintain flowering and the formation of seed pods. You need to choose the right place to land. This should be a shaded area on the north side of the garden. The land on it should be well-drained, loose, enriched with humus. If groundwater runs close to the surface (less than a meter), plant the rhododendron on a hill. The plant gets along well with pine, spruce, oak and larch, as well as other crops, the root system of which goes deep. Remember, it was already said above that the rhododendron has a superficial root system, so you need to exclude the possibility of proximity to similar plants so that they do not fight each other for moisture and nutrients. For this reason, do not plant a rhododendron next to a willow, maple, chestnut, poplar, or elm. If you cannot avoid such a neighborhood, dig a barrier between the plants to a depth of 1 m. It can be slate, roofing material or a thick plastic film. How to plant rhododendron in open ground: Dig a hole 40 cm deep and 60 cm in diameter. Pour into it a mixture of high-moor peat and loam or clay in a ratio of 2: 1 and carefully tamp at the bottom. Dig a hole in the mixture large enough to fit the root of the seedling completely into it. Lower the seedlings into the water and wait until air bubbles stop rising from the earthy coma. Place a lump in the hole, fill the remaining space with earthen mixture and lightly tamp. The root neck of the seedling should be level with the ground. Water the plant generously and sprinkle with peat, fallen leaves, needles or moss mulch in a layer 5 cm thick. Helpful Tip: If the seedling has a large number of buds, remove some of them so that the plant does not spend all its few forces on flowering, but instead takes root well. If you are planting a single rhododendron in a free area, tie it up before rooting so that the wind does not tilt the bush. Propagation of garden rhododendron Rhododendrons can be propagated by seed and vegetative methods. In the first case, the seeds are sown in boxes with a wet peat or heather mixture with sand in a ratio of 3: 1, after which they are sprinkled with clean washed sand and covered with a film to create the effect of a greenhouse. Periodically, the substrate is moistened until the first green appears. This usually happens after 4 weeks. When a pair of true leaves appears, the seedlings dive, seating them a little more freely and deepening the cotyledon leaves into the substrate so that the root system begins to form. The first year, young rhododendrons spend in a cool greenhouse, after which they can be planted in the garden on training beds. However, it should be remembered that seed reproduction always involves slow and long development, and in this case, the flowering of rhododendron can only be admired after 6-8 years. Cutting propagation is not much easier than seed propagation. Semi-lignified shoots should be cut into cuttings 5-8 cm long, remove the lower leaves from them and withstand the cuts for 12 hours in the root. After that, the lower sections should be buried in a peat-sand mixture (3: 1) in a box and covered with a film. In 1.5 months, deciduous varieties take root, and evergreen varieties take twice as long to do this. The cuttings should be grown in spacious boxes filled with a peat-pine mixture (2: 1). For the winter, they should be transferred to a cool, bright room and maintained at a temperature of 8-12C, and in the spring they should be dug in the garden without removing them from the box, where they should be grown for a couple more years before transplanting to a permanent place. The simplest and effective way reproduction of rhododendron is considered to be the instillation of layering. In the middle of spring, in the lower part of the bush, you need to find a flexible young shoot, bend it to the ground and lay it in a pre-dug groove 15-20 cm deep. The middle part of the shoot should be pinned to the bottom of the groove, and then covered with a mixture of garden soil with peat. The top of the shoot must be brought out and tied to a vertical peg. Water the cuttings along with the main bush throughout the season, and in late autumn or spring, separate the already rooted cuttings and transplant to another place. This method of reproduction is optimal for deciduous species of rhododendron. Garden Rhododendron Care Caring for a rhododendron is quite simple - know yourself to water, remove weeds and fertilize from time to time. In order for the bush to grow beautifully, it must be cut periodically, forming a crown. Important: In no case do not dig or loosen the soil around the bush, so as not to injure the superficial root system! It is very important to maintain a constant soil moisture during the swelling of the buds and flowering. Water the rhododendron only with rain or settled water, because hard water can adversely affect the laying of flower buds. To soften and at the same time slightly acidify the water, add a little high-moor peat to it the day before watering. How often to water a rhododendron? Look at the condition of the foliage of the shrub: if it becomes dull and loses turgor (becomes not so dense and smooth), then the plant does not have enough moisture. Watering should be plentiful so that water seeps to a depth of 20-30 cm. But at the same time, it is necessary not to flood the roots, so if you regularly water the shrub, but at the same time it shows signs of thirst, this indicates that there is too much moisture. Trim the rhododendron to a minimum - the shrub itself is quite capable of forming a neat and regular crown shape. But in some cases, a "haircut" is still required, especially when it comes to too tall shrubs. You also need to timely remove frozen shoots and rejuvenate old rhododendrons. Do pruning in early spring before the onset of sap flow. Cut off old or severely frozen branches 30-40 cm from ground level. Good to know: Rhododendrons have one characteristic feature - one year they bloom very luxuriantly, and the next season is much more modest. To make shrubs pleasing to the eye every year, immediately after flowering, remove wilted inflorescences. So you will direct the forces of the rhododendron to nutrition and the laying of new flower buds for the next year. Apply the first top dressing in early spring, the last - after flowering. For rhododendron, liquid fertilizers made from hornmeal and liquid fermented cow dung are best suited. Fill it with water (1:15) and insist 3-5 days. Before fertilizing, be sure to water the shrub so as not to burn the roots. Rhododendrons love acidic soil, so in order not to disturb the reaction mineral fertilizers, use superphosphate, phosphate or potassium nitrate, ammonium sulphate and calcium. Potassium fertilizers must be administered very dilute. It is recommended to apply organic or mineral nitrogen fertilizers in the spring, and after flowering - superphosphate, ammonium sulphate and potassium. The rhododendron is prepared for wintering as follows: for the middle lane, it is enough to put coniferous branches between the branches of the bush, pull them together a little with a rope and wrap them with burlap. It is also recommended to cover the ground around with peat and pine needles mulch. Diseases and pests of Rhododendron garden The most dangerous and annoying pests of rhododendron are mealybugs, spider mites, rhododendron flies and scale insects. Slugs and snails can also bother. All gastropods can be harvested by hand, using an 8% solution of TMTD or Thiram fungicide for preventive purposes. From spider mites, rhododendron flies and weevils, treatment with diazinon helps. If a shrub has been affected by a weevil, it is recommended to additionally treat the ground around it with an insecticide. Karbofos will help against other insect pests. As for diseases, most often rhododendron is exposed to fungal diseases: leaf spot, rust, chlorosis and cancer. As a rule, they are provoked by insufficient aeration of the roots, so you should not water the plants too often and abundantly. Preparations based on copper sulphate (Brodsky liquid) help against rust and spotting. And in order to defeat cancer, you will have to cut out the affected shoots or remove them down to the healthy part. Rhododendron garden: photo